By day it's a tranquil retreat from the CBD, by night it's as glamorous
and
immaculate as it was when it opened three years ago. Inside the iron gates
of Gianni Restaurant and Bar at the river end of Edward St, well-established hedges now surround the flagstoned courtyard, which is dominated by a jacaranda tree.
Walk into the downstairs bar and up a flight of stairs to a mezzanine
dining room, which is where we sat, overlooking other diners in the courtyard. The decor upstairs -- chocolate and cream leather chairs, one wall lined with the enclosed cellar, the other with banquette seating -- is timeless and oozes European chic.
Waiters are professional and knowledgeable and enjoy imparting their
enthusiasm about Spanish-born chef Javier Codina's current creation or
Italian partner Gianni Greghini's latest acquisition in the cellar. There's a poise about the place now that replaces the frenetic energy of the early Gianni with both partners moving at breakneck speed, desperately passionate about their business and eager to see that every "i" was dotted
and "t" crossed. These days things seem to happen with less effort, but with
just as much style and panache. The evening of our visit there was a special entree of foie gras. Wild mushroom and foie gras cannelloni sits on wilted greens and comes surrounded by a ginger and verjuice essence.
But I wanted the pressed duck confit, fresh poached quinces off to one
side and the most delicate little salad piled in the other corner of the plate.
This had been dressed with a very subtle vanilla and walnut scented oil that
gave it an earthy, forest floor appeal.
A perfect disc of smoked salmon risotto was enhanced by a fennel veloute
(soup) and wobblingly fresh scallops sat in a bath of creamy
sauterne-flavoured sauce and a medley of tiny vegetables.
For main, my pan-seared squire was delicious on top of fine shards of
potato and leek but the oven-roasted barramundi on cauliflower puree with a raison and caper vinaigrette was exquisite.Lines of braised celery, still intact but slow-cooked until they melted in your mouth, was the thing that made this dish so special and interesting both as a flavour and a texture.
Braised wagyu beef cheeks with root vegetables had sold out on the night
of our visit and this means I will be back when they are more plentiful.
At lunch there is a courtyard menu for $25, which includes your choice of
two of the three courses on offer as well as a glass of Gianni label wines
from Tyrrell's.
The lengthy wine list is an "all-star" read with all classic regions well
covered. Chardonnay drinkers are especially blessed with two pages devoted to the variety and all the blockbuster Aussie reds are there in multiple vintages as well as a contingent of Bordeaux and super-Tuscans.
Only four desserts are listed and all appeal but none more so than the
citrus delight, a blood orange jelly set into a martini glass and served with a
sweet, soft mandarin sorbet and a bowl of macerated cumquats.
It was so good we fought over it and seeing this, Gianni rushed over and
suggested we order another. This was not over-ordering as the flavours
were intense but the substance light and beautifully balanced. Pieces of orange were suspended in the jelly which was a glorious vivid shade of burnt orange.
The classic creme brulee came with wonderfully nutty pistachio and apricot
biscotti -- very simple and none too original but perfectly executed, just
set and utterly gorgeous. You have to love a classic dessert when prepared by such experienced hands.
Gianni has settled into its niche of fine dining, Brisbane-style. Even in
difficult economic times, service, style and quality have never waned.
While it could never be described as a "cheap eat", it is great for our
city's profile to have restaurants like these which maintain consistently high
standards in the most elegant of surrounds.
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